Chersevani, one of D.C.’s foremost purveyors of New York culture, loves her “Union Market family” and hopes to be there for 100 years. But noncompetes and requirements to conform within the design of the massive enterprise crimp her style in a few ways. The second Buffalo & Bergen, a tiny 27-seat operation with a minimalist retro design that pays homage to Dorothy Draper, opens for breakfast and lunch this morning in Capitol Hill, and Chersevani can feel the freedom. She can make french fries! No one is telling her she can’t serve espresso. If she wants to run a hamburger on one her bagels made with New York water, she doesn’t have to clear it with anybody.

“Now I finally have the first time to say this is what I think Buffalo & Bergen looks like,” she says.

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NRG represented the landlord.